Home of Championship Paint Horses

Archive for December, 2010

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  1. Silly and Sassy Livin’ Large

    Dec
    4

    Here are two wonderful companions. Silly is the mare and Sassy is the foal. Livin’ large in the front pasture.

  2. Fields of Dreams

    Dec
    4

    Summer brings us freshly tilled
    and planted pastures bringing the
    horses newer grasses.

  3. Entrance to WCR

    Dec
    4

    Old Glory and the USMC colors grace
    our entrance.
    Neither rain, snow nor dark of night
    dampen both flag’s glorious flight!

  4. Southern States Horse Feed Guide

    Dec
    4

    Southern States staff are generally very knowledge and we patronize the Manassas and Catlet stores. We used the Southern States Horse Feed Guide to help us select our feed. Here it is for your use.

    Southern States Horse Feed Reference Manual

    Southern States Horse Feed Reference Manual

  5. Bedding

    Dec
    3

    Horses in the wild do not have bedding, so why use it? Well, there are a lot of reasons. Manure will stick to it making manure removal simpler, absorbs urine. insulates the horse from the ground.

    We have tried all the various types of bedding: saw dust, fine shavings, coarse shavings, cedar shavings, pellets and the list goes on. Some people avoid bedding that generates “dust” in the stall, others want to buy the most expensive, some buy for the name some don’t buy any at all.

  6. Manure Rake Review

    Dec
    3

     

    One of the many lessons we learned regarding equipment was of course by use of the equipment.

    There are many styles and manufacturers of manure rakes. We have used most of them and have settled on a rake with sides.

    We, of course, as new horse owners, were looking to save money and bought the rake you see on the top. It does not have sides on the rake, so when you shake the rake to allow the bedding to fall through, manure often falls off the sides.

    The picture below, a rake with sides, holds the manure in place, SO YOU DON”T HAVE TO PICK IT UP AGAIN, while you shake the rake to let the bedding fall through. It also holds more manure.

    The tynes are important. Buy rakes with the thickest tynes available. Thicker tynes are less likely to break off.

    Look for rake that use two screws to hold the rake to the handle. Single screws can work loose resulting in the rake falling off the handle.

    If you can find one with a fiber glass handle, but it, as it will last much longer than a wooden handle.

    HINT: To scoop a lot of bedding we use a heavy duty plastic snow shovel. It is much lighter than a metal one and not subject to rust or corrosion from the acidic manure and urine.

  7. Horse Myths

    Dec
    3

    1. Horses cannot lay down for longer than one hour or health problems will develop like colic.

    Truth: Our horses have laid down for more than one hour w/o any ill effects. Sassy was down for for 18 hours once. If they are lying down and will not get up for you, then there is a problem.

    2. Put supplements on top of feed so they will eat it.

    Truth: It depends on the supplement. We mix our hoof supplement in with the feed and the horses do not hesitate to eat all of the mix. Some supplements require creative solutions depending on the scent of the supplement. Apple sauce works for some, Dave Giza used a caulking gun loaded with apple sauce to shoot the mix into the horses mouth. Your vet and others are good sources of methods to administer supplements, but think through the recommendation with common sense before buying gadgets or email us with a question and we will go to our experts for suggestions.

  8. Masks

    Dec
    3

    Fly masks are simple devices. Buy one with multiple straps or zipper and is constructed of tough, mesh material. The thickness of the mask material is of little consequence to the horse, as we have used both light weight and heavy weight masks. The latter have held up much better. You can see the torm masks here.

    As you can see from the picture below, the mask has one strap.  We bought two and they both came off multiple times or often ended up being cockeyed on the horses head after they rolled or rubbed.  We added a strap (black velcro) and it worked very well.

    The last picture (blue mask) comes with a zipper and works very well.

  9. Introduction to Waterers

    Dec
    3

    WATERERS                                                                                       December 2010

    Waters are like weeds, there are a lot of them for sale, but most are a pain in the bucket. Options galore make it confusing so here are aspects to consider:

    1. How many horses will use the waterer?
    2. Will the waterer be in a temperate or freezing climate?
    3. Will it be in a stall or a pasture?
    4. If placing in a pasture, can you use one waterer between two pastures or must each pasture have its own waterer?
    5. If placing in a stall, can you use one waterer between two stalls or must each stall have its own waterer?
    6. How much can I afford?
    7. Will I have a water supply via a water line or will I have to bucket the water into the waterer?
    8. Will the waterer require a electrical deicer?
    9. If an electrical deicer will be required, what is the maximum size deicer the circuit will handle? This will impact the waterer size. Hint: Large waterers and low powered deicers result in frozen waters and tripped circuit breakers.

    Waters are segregated into pasture and stall (barn) waters and from there, the options are numerous.

  10. Mats

    Dec
    2

    Where to start? The best point of departure is a question. “What type of mats do horses have in the wild? NONE. With that FACT, why do we use mats for horses. There are lots of reasons:
    1. It makes us feel good!
    2. It does help with the cleanliness of the stall; however, there are no stalls in the wild.
    3. Helps prevent rain and wind erosion in and around a stall or well traveled area.
    4. Gives us yet another opportunity to spend our hard earned dollars on our horses.

    Mats come in various molds, makes and styles. So to help you determine what type of mat to use, ask these questions:

    1. Do I want the fluids, urine, rain etc., to go through the mat or run off the mat?

    This helps you to determine if you want solid or perforated mats.

    2.  What is the square footage of the area I need to cover?

    This helps you to determine how much matting you will need.

    3. How many pieces do I want to put down?

    Mats come in various sizes, 1′ x 1′, 3′ x 3′, 4′ x 6′ and in rolls 6′ to 12′ wide. Hint: If you do not have a lifting vehicle like a tractor or fork lift, rolls of matting may not be an option.  The smaller the size the more pieces you will have to put down; however, each small piece weighs less. If you plan on moving the pieces often, smaller pieces may be the best option. If you plan on not moving the pieces, then larger pieces might be the solution.

    4. Are mats really necessary or will bedding be adequate?

    In some stalls we did not place any mats, just put bedding on top of the ground. This has worked well.

    5. Do I want to butt the mats together or do I want the interlocking pieces.

    Interlocking pieces are more expensive, but keep the mats from sliding apart.

    6. Will the mats be used indoor or outdoor?

    Most mats are not affected by sun light, but be sure if the mats are going to be placed outside, they are outdoor mats.

    7. Will the mats be placed on dirt/gravel or on a hard surface like a concrete floor?

    Solid surfaces can use both perforated or solid mats. Again it goes back to the purpose of the mat. If you want to provide traction on a concrete floor, a thin, solid mat may be the best option. Remember, perforated mats collect debris in the holes.

    8. Can I find the product I want at locations other than a horse supplier?

    Often times a horse store will have higher prices for products that can be bought at other locations. You can purchase mats directly from a mat supplier.

    We chose 4′ x 6′ solid mats for the 12′ x 12′ stalls. We also used solid mats for Andrew’s 18 x 24 stall.

    We choose to put the 2′ x 2′ perforated (w/ holes) just outside the front of the stall, as the rain water would go through the holes and keep the area in front of the stall from turning into a mud pit. Hint: We dug out the area and put in #57 gravel with some drain tile to drain the water from under the mats to a run off area. We had to do this because the rock strata (base) here in Nokesville varies from bring on the surface to about 5′ to 10′ down. This means the water would percolate to the rock bed and sit.

    We are considering redoing the stalls with perforated mats, but you must be vigilant in treating the urine as it will go into the soil that fills in the holes and be retained and develop a bad smell.

    We are considering the perforated mats for the stalls, but we will have to engineer a good base and drainage because of the shallow rock strata here.

    The first picture shows the 2′ x 2′ perforated mats in front of Andrew’s stall. We used zip ties to hold the mats together, but should have purchased the interlocking mats.

    The second picture shows the perforated mats by the waterer to prevent the ground from turning into a mud pit during a rain.